Our Process ◆
Our Process
We are Chicago’s authentic Bespoke Custom Tailor – proudly handcrafting garments of distinction in our own shop since 1929.
Our staff of European Master Tailors has over 250 years of combined experience in the pursuit of sartorial splendor. We take great pride in our tailoring staff and their “old-school” expertise and quality. And it is that commitment to genuine craftsmanship and personalized service that creates the finest custom garments to the area’s leading men and women.
Nowhere in Chicago is this level of tailoring available to create a personal wardrobe that embodies the good taste and success of its owner; the best fabrics, detailed measurements and true Master Tailoring – the finest garment you’ll ever wear!
The Steps to the Ultimate Fit
1. Consultation with Our Designers
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Because every custom order is personal, we take time to learn about your needs; style preferences, issues with fit or function, special occasions … Together we explore fabrics, design and sizing to select the right items based on your individual style and needs.
Our relationship managers have experience with every body type, style preference and fabric design – we are problem solvers at heart and want to deliver the best garment you’ve ever worn! You can be confident in our guidance – we want you to look great and feel even better.
2. Measurement & Pattern Creation
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More than 40 aspects of your physique are measured in great detail and translated by our tailors into an original pattern created exclusively for you. (We NEVER use pre-cut pieces or block patterns!)
Do you wear a watch that requires one shirt cuff to be slightly bigger? Has your golf swing caused one shoulder to slope more than the other? Our staff notices such details and incorporates them into your fit.
3. Hand Cutting
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Your clothing comes to life when the fabric is cut to your individual pattern – we never use pre-cut pieces or “block patterns.” Through a series of fittings with our Master Tailors, the garment is balanced, shaped and hand-sewn for the perfect fit.
Our staff of tailors and designers take great pride in our local work.
All garments are Made in America.
4. First Fitting
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In its rawest form and basted together with simple thread, the garment is fitted, balanced and shaped – critical steps toward the perfect fit. Important details such as lapel shape, shoulder width and jacket length can be addressed and adjusted at this point with our staff.
This age-old step goes directly to the authentic “bespoke” process and allows vital tailor-client interaction and creative input. At this critical stage, our tailors can make fundamental adjustments to the aesthetic of your garment. Without it, nothing else can compare.
5. Construction
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The secret to our success: over 250 combined years of experience dedicated to hand-crafting every element of the garment – shoulders, collars, sleeves, pockets – for the best, most flattering, most comfortable fit for you.
Our truly bespoke garments never leave our shop and are made by hand using old fashioned methods and authentic trimmings. The proof is in the details – we only use full canvas fronts and the finest interlinings, threads and details.
6. Full Fitting
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With the garment assembled but not yet finished, final shaping and adjustments are made: sleeves, trousers and waist. The garment is ready to be hand-finished and pressed. This final sizing is now recorded back to the original paper pattern and is the basis of future orders.
7. Finishing
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Your garment is nearly ready! During finishing, button-holes are meticulously hand sewn with silk threads, all linings and hems are completed, shirt collars are hand-turned with non-fused inter-linings, genuine horn or pearl buttons are sewn on, and every seam is carefully finished.
Finally, each garment is hand pressed to give shape and memory to every crease, lapel and collar – to withstand the rigors of daily wear, seasonal weather and business travel.
8. Delivery
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Your garment is finished and ready to wear! You have made a wise investment in quality and your Custom Made in America garments will look great and wear well for any business, travel or social occasion!
Chicago’s authentic Bespoke Custom Tailor since 1929 ◆
A Word About Bespoke
The integrity of the word ‘bespoke’ has been lost. Derived from the verb bespeak, meaning to “speak for something”, bespoke was used as an adjective to indicate an individually-patterned, hand-crafted garment for which the fabric is spoken for or commissioned. While many understand the cache of the word, it is often mis-used (and certainly over-used) to imply ‘custom’. Yet, how can a sandwich be bespoke? Even if the bread hasn’t yet been sliced, it has already been baked!
We create your own unique pattern based on your measurements.
We hand-cut the fabric you have selected.
We have several fittings to adjust the pattern and fit just for you.
Suit jackets are always full-canvas and garments are crafted almost entirely by hand by skilled individuals.
Our craftsmen hand-finish every element before hand-pressing with a 20 lb iron.
As the client, all aesthetic details are to your preferences.
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Joel S.
Exquisitely Handcrafted,
Uncommon Design ◆
Custom Clothing for Men and Women who know the power of appearances.